In October of 2011, Diana traveled to China with the Women’s Travel Club. Here is the first of a multi-part story about her visit.
China Part I: The Treasures and Traditions of Beijing
Our group had just entered the restaurant with Hau, our guide, when one of the ladies exclaimed, “Oh my god, what’s that!” I saw her screwed up expression and caught just a glimpse of some glass drink dispensers out of the corner of my eye. I didn’t want to know what was in them, at least not until after lunch. I didn’t know if my stomach could take it.
We had just concluded an exhausting, yet exhilarating, morning of sight-seeing in Beijing. Our first stop had been Tiananmen Square, just a short walk around the corner from where we were staying at the Capital Hotel. Hau had nicknamed us the “Supremes,” for we were a group of nine ladies, a number considered by the Chinese to be supreme.
The square was a vast open space packed with tourists, most of them Chinese citizens. It was an electrifying place, steeped in tradition, history and national pride. A few days prior to our arrival in Beijing, nearly 120,000 people had flooded Tiananmen Square to celebrate National Day. The square was still adorned with flags, lanterns and masses of red flowers.
Beijing is steeped in history and is the center of Chinese government. Most of the visitors here are Chinese business people and tourists who come from around the country to discover their heritage. There are not as many Western tourists, not like in the more cosmopolitan city of Shanghai. In many ways, Beijing had not yet come into the 21st (or even 20th) century. Later that morning, we encountered a fine example of that. It was totally unexpected, even shocking to us westerners. I’ll tell you about that presently.
As we gazed around the square in awe, our questions began to pour forth about the infamous stand-off with the tank, that iconic picture from June 4, 1989, in which a moment in time was captured for eternity when a brave (or foolish) student demonstrator faced off with a military tank in the square. Hau suppressed deep sorrow as he spoke about his own experience as a demonstrator during that time. He was a teenager and had been protesting with his friends. Except on that day, his mother had kept him home and locked him in his room. Perhaps it saved his life. Many of his friends had not been so lucky.
We were concerned about discussing such a topic so openly in public, concerned for Hau’s safety, but he assured us he was fine. Up until perhaps three years before our visit, though, the topic would have been taboo and an eavesdropper could have reported him to the government. But the policy had loosened up considerably, and there was more freedom of speech.
On the north edge of Tiananmen Square, a lone soldier stood on a platform that overlooked the square. He was perhaps in his 20s and could have been mistaken for a statue, as he remained motionless with his rifle pinned to his side. Beyond him lay the Forbidden City, and that’s where we headed next.
The Forbidden City is a UNESCO World Heritage site. It had been the Chinese Imperial Palace for nearly 500 years, from the Ming Dynasty to the end of the Qing Dynasty and was home to emperors, their wives, their children and their concubines. It also served as the political, governmental and ceremonial Mecca of China. Now, it houses the Palace Museum, the world’s largest palace complex.
Outside, an enormous portrait of Mao Zedong graces the ancient city wall above the South gate, like a beacon guiding his followers into his embrace. A mass of people flowed toward the gate. We moved into the stream, wove our way through the tunnel and into another century.
We emerged into the outer courtyard of this enormous museum and immediately spotted a group of Buddhist monks, who had gathered in the shade of a tree. Then we made our way with the crowd toward another gate that would take us into the heart of the city.
To me, the city’s structure seemed to be like a lotus blossom that must be discovered little by little. As one moves toward the center, the blossom unfolds to reveal its inner beauty.
It never ceases to amaze me how pervasive American culture is. Near the next gate, a group of school children waited in a long line. They were all wearing Disney-themed backpacks. I yelled out, “Mickey Mouse!” Several children turned and grinned at me. How, cute!
Finally, we entered the Outer Court, the sheer size of which was utterly overwhelming. We made our way through landscaped gardens, multiple buildings with elaborate, detailed architecture, to the Inner Court where the emperors and their families had lived. Along the way, we viewed a treasure-trove of imperial paintings, ceramics, and decorative objects. Huge bronze vessels, placed outside of some of the buildings, once held water and were used for extinguishing fires.
About halfway through our tour, we needed to take a bathroom break. Hau smiled and almost apologetically informed us that there were no western-style restrooms there. He directed us to what he said were the best restrooms in the complex.
Surprise, surprise. There were no toilet seats. Not even any toilets, really. And no toilet paper. The facilities consisted of a porcelain bowl embedded in the floor. To use it, you had to squat over the bowl, do your business and then try to stand up without falling over. Good thing I had strong legs from Yoga.
By the time we made our way through the North gate and out into the street, we were exhausted and famished. We boarded a little tour bus and headed to lunch at a traditional restaurant.
A feast fit for a queen awaited us in our own private dining room. Platters and bowls of food were placed on a lazy Susan in the middle of the round table, so we could serve ourselves by turning it until our selection came around. This was a common practice throughout China. Bottled beer and tea were also common drinks for lunch and dinner. Water is rarely served. In fact, the Chinese drink very little water. They get most of their hydration from drinking tea.
Stuffed and ready for a nap, we Supremes emerged from our dining room and moved slowly toward the exit. I was still curious about what was in those glass drink dispensers I had so sheepishly avoided. I decided to face my fear head on.
Oh, my god. The four vessels were filled with whole snakes wrapped around the glass cylinders. There were also whole squid and what looked like herbs and a black scorpion.
I asked Hau what it was. He wrinkled up his nose and said dryly:
“Snake wine.”
He explained that snake wine is an ancient Chinese tradition, an infusion of rice wine, whole snakes and herbs that is believed to promote health and vitality. I asked if he’d ever tried it. He nodded and remarked, “It wasn’t good.”
I stared at the cylinders and considered whether I should brave it. After all, travel is about experiencing new things. I decided I wanted to live to sight-see another day and joined the group as they boarded the bus that would take us to our next destinations: The Great Wall and The Summer Palace.
I do still wonder what snake wine tastes like.